Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me.
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 03:12am 08 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Rod
You are really getting into the swing of it, you will run your Google battery flat too.
Sounds like you are going to have some fun trying to revive those farmer Brown batteries, good luck with that.
Now the H and the O2 have escaped and you have a heap of concentrated sulphates all you need is the energy to recombine the chemicals, the trick is to get them to combine and end up in the right places.
All the best
BobFoolin Around
domwild Guru Joined: 16/12/2005 Location: AustraliaPosts: 873
Posted: 01:05pm 11 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Someone even used an electric fence thingy to desulphate batteries; probably wise to stay away from the batteries!Taxation as a means of achieving prosperity is like a man standing inside a bucket trying to lift himself up.
Winston Churchill
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 01:29pm 11 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Dom
Years ago I did try one and it worked to a limited amount it was a 6 volt trembler type with wide and strong pulse, but knowing what I have found out now I think the frequency was to low to have harmonics in the range to shatter the sulphate crystals, the modern ones go for a high frequency to get harmonics in the resonant frequency of the sulphate crystals.
from what I have observed over the years any pulsed hi intensity energy will work to some degree but not as effective as a designed for purpose device.
All the best
Bob
PS:
I found that batteries charged with a brush type generator sulphated less than alternator charged batteries or ones that where charged off solar cells.
I put this down to the spikey DC made by a generator due to the mechanical rectification on the commutator as compared to the soft DC by diodes or solar panels.
In the older cars I was brought up with the batteries lasted 5 / 6 years bur with the modern alternator charged systems you are lucky to get 3 years, has anybody else noticed this. Foolin Around
domwild Guru Joined: 16/12/2005 Location: AustraliaPosts: 873
Posted: 01:05pm 13 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
pancho43:
"There is a tiny spark when I connect it!" - Probably a good idea to connect first and then switching the desulphator on to stop the sparking, however, I have managed to do the wrong thing many times before with a battery charger, which was switched on by mistake!
Sorry about making the comment with the fence charger connection twice, this is a long thread and very interesting.
Have a monster 125 Ah tractor battery on its way out (75 HP) and may just invest $38 for the Infinitum desulphator and see if I can resurrect it.Taxation as a means of achieving prosperity is like a man standing inside a bucket trying to lift himself up.
Winston Churchill
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 02:12pm 13 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
The sparking when you connect the desulphator is normal and that is one way of checking it is working.
I use the Infinitum desulphators my self and found them very good and reliable, I have only managed to destroy one a 12 volt unit, I think I put it across 24 volts by mistake and it died I will cut it up and see whats inside I may be able to repair it if its not fully encapsulated.
If your battery is sound just down on capacity you will get it going again but it may take a few weeks, keep your charge rate low preferably around 2 amps as if you go to high you loose active material from the plates.
This is the desulphator across 24 volt 250 AH not ideal but it works slowly, I am going to put 12 volt ones across the split bank when I get around to making them.
This is the charge rate across 24 volts 250 AH pack this is desulphating without boiling the active material off the plates
The exception to this rule is on a badly sulphated battery that won' accept charge, you need to give a king hit to get it conducting maybe 60 volts to break the resistance then reduce voltage and current until the battery is bubbling lightly and evenly across all the cells, when you have a proper voltage across the battery indicating no shorted cells reduce to below five amps for a day then go back to 2 amps for several weeks.
All the best
BobFoolin Around
M Del Senior Member Joined: 09/04/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 155
Posted: 03:52pm 13 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
The old alternator v generator question Bob.
I spent a lot of years working on old Landrovers Minis and Austins etc.
The old generators are a slower charger than alternators but always seemed to charge a battery to a higher level. The old 2a landrover workshop vehicles we used all had generators until the generators/parts became nearly impossible to source, they were a particular size.
The ones we fitted with alternators charged a lot quicker at 45 amps and then dropped off to a negligible amount as voltage increased to 14.5v and then drop back to just over 14v, but the ones still fitted with generators would charge at 25 amps and then still read 2-3 amps at 14.7v.
I noticed the same thing with my austin1800 when I fitted an alternator to it.
Alternators reach a high level of charge (90-95%) quicker than generators but generators are better for battery life (100% charge), but a generator will not give you the high amps required by modern cars where everything is electrical and the load can be 100 amps or more at times. Mark
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 12:29am 14 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi mark
I have found the same thing during my life and working on many different electrical systems, the 32 volt power and lighting systems is where I found the greatest problems with soft charging, when using generator charging the batteries kept in far better condition even though they where abused from a technical point of view.
Your observation regarding the charging voltage of the old generators is a good point as the charging spikes at that voltage would be in the desulphating range.
The other issue with automotive systems is the voltage sensitivity of critical components most would be unhappy if taken to a voltage level and held at the desulphating voltage of 16 volts. with the large amount of systems in modern vehicles that depend on and virtually run direct off the alternator, it is the battery longevity that is sacrificed, that's progress.
I run a desulphator on my car and it deals with the spikes from it but the regulated voltage is 14 volts well within the specifications of the electrical system.
All the best
BobFoolin Around
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 10:09pm 14 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Progress report
Hi All
All voltages have stabilized on the bank number one batteries all are within .1 of a volt and a 48 hour sit test showed stability in all batteries, so I started reassembling the bank today. Once both banks are hooked up Ii will do a load test with a 2 KW heater and record the voltage and capacity. The combined capacity should be 1500 AH but I suspect it will be lower as the first few cycles generally show less capacity until the batteries settle to chemical balance.
In this case it should yield 1500 AMPS over 20 hours as per battery spec rating that equates to a 75 AH load for 20 hours but as I only want to discharge to 50% it means a test to 75 AMPS an hour for 10 hours final voltage will tell me the overall capacity of the bank without full discharge.
Considering the trauma these batteries have been subjected to I would be surprised pleasantly if they show 50% of rated capacity, they should build more capacity with ongoing use, but that remains to be seen.
All the best
BobFoolin Around
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 02:40am 15 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Have you got this bank at 12 volts. Does that mean 9kwh bank at 50% capasity?
Won't a 2000 watt heater be taking 160 amps out and not 75 amps on your discharge rate? I am just trying to keep up. I find this pretty interesting.
gww
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 04:32am 15 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Gww
The total of bank 1 and bank 2 is 1500AH @ 24 volt according to battery spec and both are at 24 volt nominal that gives a maximum of 36 KW less conversion losses around 10 % so say about 32 KW fully drained, but I am only going to test to 30% drain so that is a power output of about 10 KW.
My household daily drain average is 15 KW and solar input of 2.5 KW so at 30% discharge it just scrapes in as being useful. The other 12 volt system is taking up a bit of the slack but will be expanded to cover essential services.
Considering the trauma suffered by these batteries I may not get that amount of power on the first few cycles, but that is my aim.
The heater is rated at 2 KW 240 volts and on previous tests it draws 8 amps @ 240 volts this equates to 88Amps at 24 volts the minimum draw voltage on the two banks, by turning the thermostat on the heater down a bit I can vary the load on the inverter to 75 amps.
If I was on 12 volt your 160 amps would be about right but both banks are 24 volt and wired in parallel.
The figures are not set in concrete as you realize there will be some droop in voltage during the testing so load factors are changing but the average over 10 hours is what I am looking at. So at the end of the test after turning off the load the voltage of the batteries will recover a little and this voltage is the capacity left in the banks.
I purchased a digital capacity meter that reads capacity left in the banks based on the voltage at the time and am interested to see how it works, when I set it up I will take a photo so you can see how it indicates.
I will do testing with solar input later to see how the capacity is extended by solar assistance.
All the best
BobFoolin Around
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 09:53am 15 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
I have an 800 ah 48 volt bank, so your explination put it in perspectve for me.
Thanks
gww
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 03:52am 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Gww1
Your battery pack is about the same size as mine KW that is, double the voltage and a little over half the AH, but your batteries are probably in better condition than my poor abused set. I hope to keep them alive for a couple more years until I can save enough for a new set.
Also a 48 volt system is a bit more efficient than a 24 volt system providing your solar panels are load matched when series connected.
This begs the question, what draw down limit do you use on average?
All the best
BobFoolin Around
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 05:15am 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
I have issues with what I think my battery capasity is,
The manufatuer believes that the plates are still not formed after 1 and 1/2 years.
I purposly drew it down with a thirty 3o amp draw one time. I took it down 520 amps and had to re-connect it to keep the inverter going.
My sg shows the battery is 100% discharged on my low cell at about 330 amps out of the battery. I have one cell that since new has ran with an sg at about .020 lower then the rest of the battery. I have 1.285 to 1.295 sg when full battery. My low cell will get to 1.280 and the several of the others will get to above 1.300 during eq.
My normal rate of dischage is right around 22 amps with the understanding that some times larger loads will take it as high as 50 to 60 amps for short periods (well pump,microwave, coffee maker.) My voltages seem to read on track as discharging and the sg seems to run low.
Last night I took 280 ah the trimetric battery meter said 66% soc I did not check the sg but believe it would have been about 1.220 to 1.200 on the low cell. The battery was disconnected due to low voltage disconnect.
The cc would have recorded that voltage at about 45.5 volts. The battery after disconnect would have a rebound voltage of between 48.4 to 48.8 volts.
You may get more out of your bank then I am.
The manufatuer says if I took the full 800 amps out the battery would be at 80% discharge but 330 amps per sg may have a compleatly neutral sg reading on the low cell.
I am learning and this is my first battery and maby I have damaged it already although it does not get generate heat while charging. The battery temp now starts at about 50 degrees f and will go to a top of 64 degrees when charging to full. I have eq for up to 20 hour and got the battery to 90 degree at least once.
You probly didn't want to know all this but it should give you a bassis to compare cause as you proceed I will be looking at your results and thoughts about you results and comparing them to this.
Thanks
gww
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 02:32pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Gww1
When we start off we all have issues with our battery banks, due mainly to the makers specifications being a bit misleading and giving us a higher expectation of what our lead acid cells will do. The makers quote a an amp hour figure say 1000 AH but in small print you will find that is with a draw down over 10 or 20 hours so that equates to 100 AH for ten hours or 50 AH for twenty hours, this is to full discharge, but if you do that repeatedly in active service you will kill your batteries very quickly.
Automotice batteries 25% discharge is about the limit for a reasonable life, and for deep cycle batteries around 50% discharge, fork lift batteries are designed to go to 80% generally but their life is short generally replaced on spec every 5 years, while if limited to 50 % they can go for 20 years if treated with TLC.
For most deep cycle batteries you are looking at a 50% only discharge to get reasonable life expectancy from your batteries, so in this example you really only have a 400 AH battery bank. Other forms of batteries such as LIPO and NIFE cells can go to 80% or a bit more without permanent damage so a smaller AH bank will do the same job, then cost rears it's ugly head as these other batteries cost a lot more, so we pay more or accept the limitations of our lead acid batteries.
Quote:
I purposely drew it down with a thirty 3o amp draw one time. I took it down 520 amps and had to re-connect it to keep the inverter going. You went past the voltage Knee and into a higher internal resistance area see the graphs on this.
What you did here was go beyond the 50% capacity of your batteries and get into the area where the voltage drops off on a knee effect and the internal resistance of your batteries increased combined effect being the drop out of the inverter. A couple of pages back I included the voltage and internal resistance charts, have another look at these as they tell the sad story. Also you where probably drawing the battery down faster than the makers specifications to make things worse, you will need to know time on this one.
Quote:
My sg shows the battery is 100% discharged on my low cell at about 330 amps out of the battery. I have one cell that since new has ran with an sg at about .020 lower then the rest of the battery. I have 1.285 to 1.295 sg when full battery. My low cell will get to 1.280 and the several of the others will get to above 1.300 during eq.
Your low cell from new may be a fault of the charging with acid being a bit low SG from new, (This is whats called a Friday or Monday battery), when hangovers or get home itus are happening, you can bring the SG up a bit by adding more acid yourself to match the other cells, be careful doing this as full strength acid isn't friendly stuff, add about 1 - 5 cc at a time depending on the capacity of your cells. Do this then equalize charge to distribute the acid through the electrolyte.
Quote:
I am learning and this is my first battery and maybe I have damaged it already although it does not get generate heat while charging. The battery temp now starts at about 50 degrees f and will go to a top of 64 degrees when charging to full. I have eq for up to 20 hour and got the battery to 90 degree at least once.
We are all learning new things and things forgotten every day, that's the university of life, You have a lazy cell but it could be corrected by adding a bit of acid to bring up the SG and hence its electrochemical activity to match the rest of the cells.
The heating of the cells during charging is normal and will increase with the amps input, but that heating is in fact wasted energy, I would look at fitting a set of desulphators so you do not need to go so high with your equalization charge, (58 volts) and do not boil the active material off your plates in the process as once this is in the bottom of the cell as grunge it is no good for anything, and will eventually short out the bottoms of the plates resulting in a shorted cell of if a lesser affect a higher than normal internal self discharge rate.
In effect I think you need to realize you have a working battery at 400 AH not a fully discharged 800 AH because at that level the inverter drops out as you noted and generally the power out is so low it is useless anyway. Contact your supplier and ask what the rated discharge time is, 10 hour or 20 hours then you can get a clearer picture of the capability of your battery and not kill it with false expectations.
Quote:
The cc would have recorded that voltage at about 45.5 volts. The battery after disconnect would have a rebound voltage of between 48.4 to 48.8 volts.
This is a normal reaction of the battery due to internal resistance increasing during discharge, see the graph on previous post, in your case if one cell is a bit lazy it will effect all the cells as it is in series so the conductivity of the battery can only be as good as the weakest cell.
This is a problem with single string series electronic devices. Batteries included.
For example my Grid Feed Solar panel uses 6 x 200 WATT panels in series, the rated output of these panels is 5.4 amps per panel, but in reality I only get 3.2 amps out at the GFI not the expected 5.4 amps,a loss of 2.2 amps at a system voltage of 280 volts, this is a loss of over 500 watts on a simple solar panel set, that's why it is important to load match panels, but contract installers do not understand this, or do not have the time to do it within their contract payment.
You haven't mentioned your charging method but if it is solar it will augment the battery's during daylight hours and those amps are real amps not % amps so very useful.
Short term loads even if higher power is required such as coffee maker toaster microwave have in really only have a smaller draw.
Example my toaster is 2000 watt but toasts the bread in two minuted so in effect is using 66 watts of power, the microwave 1200 watt unit on a 5 minute defrost is 100 watts make porridge in the morning on the induction plate 400 watts time 10 minutes in watts 66 watts.
TV 250 watts X 8 hours a day is 2 KW computer is the same. ( more solar panels)
Airconditioner 2500 watts x 8 hours a day is 12 KW
These are the battery killers.
Sorry to waffle on.
All the best
Bob
Foolin Around
BobD Guru Joined: 07/12/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 935
Posted: 02:48pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Bob
Recently I had to replace my large plasma TV because it was too heavy for me to move. It was 70+ Kg approx. I bought an LED lit LCD unit of nearly the same size. It was less than one third of the weight at 21Kg and more importantly the power use was 104 watts. That's a big saving.
edit: I forgot to add that although the plasma has a very good picture, especially when showing sports, the LCD is so good that it is hard to tell the difference.Edited by BobD 2015-01-18
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 03:08pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Bob
A few years ago I inherited a plazma TV and was shocked to see the power bill go up, from memory it was around 700 watts, good in winter saved running the heater but in summer it was like sitting watching the oven cook something, it got moved to the shed and I bought a led tv rating of 200 watts but on testing it was closer to 250 watts big reduction in power usage though, but looks like you have done better, I also have a 12 volt 24 Inch TV in the office and it only uses 48 watts, good to keep an eye on the cricket while the other half watches her sob and tear programs. My old 21 inch stone age CRT TV only uses 80 watts, and I stuck a set top box on top of it and it works OK but down on quality a bit, then most of the programs are Visual Diarrhea anyway so what the hell.
This Computer which is nearly a dinosaur still on XP uses 245 watts including satellite doover and wi fi thing, my laptop uses 60 watts but is windows 7 which find doesn't do some of the things I want to do easily.
The TV is better than my eyes so I am not sure there but my wife has a tablet thing and the picture on it is really good nearly looks like 3d depth.
All the best
BobEdited by VK4AYQ 2015-01-18Foolin Around
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 04:42pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Bob
Wow what a replie. If I typed that much I would have still been typing now and they don't make a spell check that would correct it.
To some of the points. I believe the cell was low from factory. I did however use the sellsmens charging set points for about six months and could never get the sg to improve on several cell even with 16 and 20 hour eq. I was eq with 62 volts and absorbing with 57.2 volts. I now absorb at 61.5 and eq at 63.4 volts. It is winter here now and to get the sg above 1.260 I have to use eq voltage to charge about every three days. I may have under charged the first six months and suffated the battery. I charge with right at a 10% charge rate sometimes a bit above sometime a bit below.
No matter how many amps I return to the battery it doesn't raise the sg with out high voltage.
I have a 510 six hour rate or 804 twenty amp hour rate battery. The manufactuer is very proud that these rates if all 800 amp hours are taken out will leave your battery at an 80% depth of discharge. They are saying that the battery has a usable 800 amp hours. I agree that I have a 400 usable battery or less. The only reason I took it down the 500 amp hours the once was I had just put a trimetric meter on it and was going to cycle it a bit deep and recharge a few times and see if it would jar the sg a bit. I had eq and added water and was just trying to draw it down to 45 volts using volts cause I couldn't take sg readings. The next time I drew it to 330 amps and that is where I got a neutral sg reading. If you just have too much time on your hands you can see my actions/trials here.
I did the math to come up with the 30 amp draw before I read that I was supposed to have 800 usable amps which would be closer to a 40 amp draw to take it down in 20 hours.
I know you are a firm believer in desulfators but will the sg rise with out a high enough voltage. Mine won't. Plus good or bad I have to charge in a six to eight hour window.
I think about the adding acid thing but wonder if the manufactuer is correct and my plates are still not fully formed. His advice has helped the ease of getting higher sgs in a reasonable amount of time as the battery was unusable before. I could have undercharged, drew the battery too low and overcharge.
I don't know my nightly loads but watching the charging the next day they could be as high as 15 kwh every night.
Using the daily loads strait. I do have an oppertunity load of 2000 watts that I heat hot water with when my batteries get in absorb. On good days it comes out to about 3 hours.
So You can see why I was interested in your thread and interested in your bank size.
I watch and compare so I have a chance to decide if what I am experiancing is normal or not. I might raise hell or My battery may be working close enough to how it is supposed to and I am just not smart enough to know it. I don't want to raise hell unless I am correct. I also don't want to pay to be wrong or cost someone else cause I am wrong. I do have the grid so this is mostly trying to keep things working like they should and not cause it is causing me big problims except the stress of not being learned yet.
He Thanks for the responce and I will keep watching what you are doing cause I find it interesting. I don't want to do it cause it looks like lots of work but I apretiate your sharing.
gww
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 05:30pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Bob
I have a lg tv that I put a killowatt meter on and it runs an average of 300 watts and does make a good heater.
Where does a guy look for acid and is there anything to look for when buying it?
I am into about a 6 hour eq right now and my battery is 74 degrees f and my low cell is 1.281. I am going to try to get it to 80 degrees and check and see it it goes down or stays the same. If it goes up, which it won't I will keep eq. Does getting the low cell up stress the low cell more or the high cells while doing it?
Thanks
gww
VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539
Posted: 05:41pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Hi Gww1
You have had a tale of woe but consider the low cell acid deficient from new as all the other cells have had the same treatment and appear to be OK, when we where installing battery power units on the farms in the dark ages one of the things you did with all battery sets was to do 3 charge cycles and then get the acid bottle and equalize the cell SG this was after filling the cells with mixed acid provided by the maker, I did some testing on the acid before filling the cells and found differences in the SG across a number of drums of mixed electrolyte, some where better after a good agitation but some not so it isn't just stratification that causes the problem.
In my experience the plates are formed after 5 or so cycles so I think they are just looking for an excuse there.
Power you put into the battery above float voltage is wasted in heat and destroying the battery structure so should be avoided if possible that is where the desulphators come in.
If you have consistently drawn to many amps and sulphated the cells you all the more need desulphators fitted but it will take a couple of months to get results so do not expect wonders.
Your overnight draw of 15 KW is really working the batteries a bit to hard considering there is no input over that time, you may consider a 5 amp trickle from the mains to reduce battery stress overnight and use grid feed during the day to feed it back in to the grid once you have reached float value. the 3.5 KW overnight would would stop you going over the knee voltage and help keep the batteries out of the higher internal resistance zone.
All the best
BobEdited by VK4AYQ 2015-01-18Foolin Around
gww1 Regular Member Joined: 14/06/2013 Location: United StatesPosts: 63
Posted: 07:36pm 16 Jan 2015
Copy link to clipboard
Print this post
Bob
I have been going to about four forums for a couple of years and have seen many threads where they are saying that it took up to 100 cycles before their batteries started taking charges better and some say it is a good thing cause those batteries last longer. I don't discount what you say as I don't really know.
I am going to do an internet search for this. I know I don't want mixed acid. Are there any pitfalls in what I am looking for or looking to avoid? I am not sure what to look for.
The problim is that these are really tall and narrow batteries and the manufactuer says that the acid is heavier then the water and to get proper mixing it takes Boiling/adjitation (or what ever word they used.) or other problims are caused. I do know that it takes some mixing to get changes while charging cause I can see it in my sg readings.
If the specs were correct I should be able to take 38400 watts from the battery and be at 80% dod. 15000watts shoud be about 70% soc. The trimetric says it is about 60% soc and the sg on the low cell says it is about 20% soc. It is the one thing I can fix. I could just raise the low voltage disconnect voltge. I am not grid tie but can use the grid to charge my battery, however I can not use it to charge while running loads off the battery, I either run loads or charge when using the grid.
I have no other way to charge 48 volts but the inverters. If I got the low cell up I should be well in the safe range of not dicharging below 50%. and if the battery did what it said I would be closer to 70% state of charge from 100% I don't try to get to 100% daily so it does have to be discounted some and 15000 watts is probly too much.
I will have to look at desulfators as I know you are using them and talking about them and building them in this thread but I haven't ever seen one or formed an opinion to look hard enough to understand yet.
I think first and foremost I intend to look up battery acid and where to get it.
I can't wait to see your load test on your new/old batteries.
gww
Ps the trimetric said I used 260 amps from the battery last night but it is hard to put a voltage to this and see what it means in watts cause some of it was at voltages above 50 volts and who knows what the voltage sag was and how much was below 46 volts. For longer life 20% dischage would be better but this still shouldn't be way out of line or I don't understand something.Edited by gww1 2015-01-18
Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me.
Print this post
