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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : It's too quiet here ...
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Grogster Admin Group  Joined: 31/12/2012 Location: New ZealandPosts: 9306 |
When I have any spare time(that that often!), I have been tinkering on a few projects. The latest one is a new version of an HC12 tester - this is the unit that caused me all the LCD problems - till I discovered that I was the creator of my own horror story, as I installed the wrong regulator chip.    This board automatically configures the module under test, tests the transmission frequency, and then resets the module to default settings. You need a scanner radio to tune into the test frequency, but everything else is done at the press of a button. This is designed to make testing of any HC12, a quick and easy process. It was found to be necessary to test EVERY module that did not come directly from the HC factory, as there are lots of clones on the market. If the module under test passes, it is OK to use. If the module under test fails, then that normally requires you to replace 30MHz SMD crystal on the module, then re-test. If anyone here has a use for this(looking any any of you who use HC12's regularly!), let me know and I can either upload a constructors ZIP file, or start a new thread. Smoke makes things work. When the smoke gets out, it stops! |
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Quazee137 Guru  Joined: 07/08/2016 Location: United StatesPosts: 569 |
What about a known good HC12 to use in frequency testing? One that is part of the board where you can run it through a set of frequencies for the test unit to match. A while back I used a few for a smart sensors sending data to main controller but only when controller asked. Couldn't run wires from a 2nd and 3rd cooling tower as there are two lane roads in the way. They liked it better than what the other Rep was selling $800 controllers one for each of the three towers. Towers wait to be asked in plain English. "Tower one send." or "Tower two send" towers reply with "Temp=XX","PH=XX","Conductivity=XX","Gate Valve at=XXX" and Controller to "Tower one Gate Valve=xxx" ect ... Using text messages made it easier to log and display. Oh the text is low level encrypted. Nothing fancy just a few tables look up. The checksum is based on the pre-encrypted text. Had FUN with this project. Quazee137 I say Thanks Grogster I got into using it from your stuff here on thebackshed. |
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thwill Guru Joined: 16/09/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 4036 |
That looks very swish Martin. Which platform? Best wishes, Tom Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures |
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| thwill Guru Joined: 16/09/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 4036 |
Thanks Doug. If we get to the point where I think it needs a separate manual as opposed to just an addendum to consult alongside one of the other manuals then I will probably take you up on that offer. Best wishes, Tom Game*Mite, CMM2 Welcome Tape, Creaky old text adventures |
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CaptainBoing Guru Joined: 07/09/2016 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2075 |
re-visited the software in my 3D printer heated bed controller. Did a very simple "bang-bang" version years ago but the temperature was predictably erratic and on the hot side. I wanted more as-demanded rather than "it's in there somewhere" New software with trending and using SIN to compensate for the hysteresis between the heaters and the thermal mass of the plate. Target was within 5% of demand - I got it down to around 1.8% so quite happy with that. Plot of temperature Vs input power. The power is calculated by V * A(full load) * PWM ratio (0.00>= n >=1.00).  Edited 2024-05-11 19:37 by CaptainBoing |
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Martin H. Guru Joined: 04/06/2022 Location: GermanyPosts: 1113 |
I'm writing this on the PicomiteVGA, but with framebuffer F and framebuffer copy F,n,b it runs just as smoothly on the Game*Mite. Cheers Martin 'no comment |
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Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6783 |
I'll see if I can translate... UK electrics are fairly unique though. :) combi = combination boiler. In this case, gas powered. It provides the central heating and produces hot water "on tap" as it's required, rather than heating a tank. Wago connectors - little wire connectors made by the Wago company in Germany. This sort have little levers and two holes to put wires in. Simply lift a lever, insert a wire and pop the lever back. They can join flexible, stranded or solid wire. They are supposed to be enclosed in a box with cord grips so that there is no strain on them. They are not waterproof, so dangling under a water heater in a kitchen is not exactly the best installation.... tie-wrapped = fastened with a cable or "zip" tie (usually nylon, but there are metal versions for fire-resistant installations). fused spur = In this case it's rather like a light switch front plate, but the front has a double pole switch and a pull-out fuse holder. There is a hole, with a cable clamp, along the bottom where a flexible cable comes out to go to the combi (it needs power for the fan, central heating pump, gas solenoid and control electronics). It's called a "spur" as it's connected on a ring main to "tap into it" to give a single output. There are various versions of spur units, some without a flex output, some with an indicator light etc. The ones with a flex output have a fuse to protect the flex. mcb = miniature circuit breaker. Like a switch, but with a magnetic release to open it on overcurrent. They replaced rewireable and cartridge fuses in domestic fuse boards many years ago, but our house was one of those that never had the fuse board replaced. Edited 2024-05-11 21:35 by Mixtel90 Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs |
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| lizby Guru Joined: 17/05/2016 Location: United StatesPosts: 3150 |
Ok, thanks. I also have a boiler which supplies heat for baseboard radiators (3 zones) and (formerly) hot water (not on demand). It's very humid here in Nova Scotia (a quarter mile above tidal water), and the basement just has a gravel floor and walls made of big rocks piled atop one another with no mortar or filling. Everything corrodes, and when the piping to the water heater part went, the plumber said it would be cheaper to put in a stand-alone electric unit. (The house is about 180 years old.) Fortunately the people I bought from replaced the fuse box with a 200A box with circuit breakers, and rewired most circuits. An old house 3 down from us had a sale fall through because it had only fuses (and a number of other electrical issues), and the prospective buyers couldn't get insurance. After $10,000 in rewiring, the place has sold. PicoMite, Armmite F4, SensorKits, MMBasic Hardware, Games, etc. on fruitoftheshed |
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| Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6783 |
We've been in here about 34 years now. I was told that it had been rewired just before we moved in and I can believe that. The wiring is red & black PVC twin & earth, the colours changed to brown and blue in 2004, although red & black continued to be used until 2006. I'm part way through swapping the fuse box for a much more modern consumer unit. It'll be the first time we've had overall RCD (residual current device) protection. :) I'm adding surge protection too. I'm legally allowed to supply and fit everything, but not to wire it up and test it because I've not taken the necessary exams and joined a trade body. Very annoying. Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs |
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| lizby Guru Joined: 17/05/2016 Location: United StatesPosts: 3150 |
The building inspector allowed me to rewire my barn when I put a finished room in it (although service and the breaker box were unchanged). No such work would be allowed the homeowner in the dwelling space. PicoMite, Armmite F4, SensorKits, MMBasic Hardware, Games, etc. on fruitoftheshed |
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| Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6783 |
A 200A supply is very rare here. Most older properties, flats etc. have 60A or 80A. You need to get upgraded to 100A (if possible) to use an EV charger effectively. Larger houses might have a 3-phase 60A or 80A supply. Of course, our single phase is 230V -6% / +10% a nominal 230V (often 240V) and 3-phase is roughly 400V-440V line-line, although domestic properties will usually only use it as three single phase supplies. Occasionally you can find a 2-phase & neutral house! Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs |
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| matherp Guru Joined: 11/12/2012 Location: United KingdomPosts: 9110 |
I have a holiday home in France that has a 3-phase supply. 415VAC is scary stuff. In France the standing charge is based on the maximum supply wattage. We have a 18KW connection but it is essential to balance the phases as if any phase exceeds 6KW the meter cuts the supply. Only the heat pump actually takes a 3 phase input. If I ever buy an EV then the 3-phase supply will come in handy for much faster charging. It always amuses me when our American friends worry about electrocution with a 110V supply - with 415V then you need to really be careful  |
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TassyJim Guru Joined: 07/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 6098 |
My rural property has 80A. Anything bigger and they would need to upgrade the transformer and my feedin (at my expense). When the wife wanted a big UK style stove, I kept its circuit breaker at 32 amps. She hasn't tripped it yet but if she does, the cable is good for 40 amps which I could just manage while keeping the maximum demand down below 80 amps. The EV charger is set to a low 9 amps to keep the load down to what the solar puts out. No need for rapid charging usually and I can wind it up to 15 amps if desperate. My current EV is good for 6kW single phase AC charging but that would require some major rewiring. The new models can handle 3 phase AC. 32 volts can kill you. I used to climb around EHV switchyards for a living. 220kV is interesting. Instead of insulated gloves like we used for live switchboard work, we had conductive sole boots to make sure you were earthed. That stopped your spanner drawing an arc as you approached the bolt, but it didn't stop your hair standing on end. Don't have the hair problem any longer. Jim VK7JH MMedit MMBasic Help |
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| Volhout Guru Joined: 05/03/2018 Location: NetherlandsPosts: 4223 |
Martin, You can assign a sprite another number, and so control its behavior after the fall. 2 sprites, visual identical, but with a different sprite or tile number. Volhout PicomiteVGA PETSCII ROBOTS |
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| Mixtel90 Guru Joined: 05/10/2019 Location: United KingdomPosts: 6783 |
Right, that's the front door done too - and it's turned out remarkably well for an amateur like me. :) Trouble is, it's showing up the tatty condition of the door handle now... I discovered the other day that you can program our induction hob's maximum load to one of four settings depending on the capability of your supply. I suspect that if we turned everything on we would take out it's current 32A fuse easily. The instructions tell you to put it on a 40A mcb, which isn't likely when the biggest fuse wire you have is 32A - and you refuse to double it up or use ordinary wire. :) I should do some maximum load calculations. I have a feeling that our 60A service fuse might be a bit on the small side now. I don't think our incoming cable would be suitable for 100A - and it's in a very bad place for changing. Mick Zilog Inside! nascom.info for Nascom & Gemini Preliminary MMBasic docs & my PCB designs |
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phil99 Guru Joined: 11/02/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2135 |
Replacing a 32A re-wireable fuse fuse with a 40A CB is ok due to the different rating methods. A CB will trip at just over its rated current whereas a re-wireable fuse is only required to blow within 60 seconds at double it's rating. Regulations here allow a 2.5 sq. mm cable to be protected by a 15A fuse or 20A CB. For 4 sq. mm cable it's 32A and 40A. Derating back to 15 and 32 applies if the cable is in thermal insulation. |
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| PeterB Guru Joined: 05/02/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 651 |
G'Day Captain. I know I will live to regret this but....... What is SIN? Nice to see you still active. Peter |
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| phil99 Guru Joined: 11/02/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2135 |
Just a guess, but looking at the trace he seems to be including the SINE function in the PID loop to counteract oscillations caused by thermal lag. |
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| Martin H. Guru Joined: 04/06/2022 Location: GermanyPosts: 1113 |
Hello Harm I have now tested and solved this. The Game has only a small number of tiles so the the higher-value Nible of the Playfieldarray I have space to give each tile on the map additional information. If a stone or a gem falls, I set bit 1 (128), if it falls on something the bit is deleted again. This allows the player to walk among stones and gems unharmed, but if it falls on the player, the player dies. For butterflies and fireflies, I will store the information for the direction of movement there.(not done jet) Cheers Martin Edited 2024-05-12 18:47 by Martin H. 'no comment |
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| darthvader Regular Member  Joined: 31/01/2020 Location: FrancePosts: 76 |
@Martin , II have made a boulder dash clone in TI83 calculator long ago , if it can help i attach the c source code  TIDiams_src.zip  And for the same calculator i made a lode runner clone too , if someone is interrested here is the c source code : runner_src.zip  The GIF/PNG are animated , i hope the forum can show it. Links to TIPlanet for this 2 download: Diams Runner Theory is when we know everything but nothing work ... Practice is when everything work but no one know why ;) |
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