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Forum Index : Other Stuff : DIY desktop CNC Router

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vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 06:20pm 26 Jan 2011
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Hi guys,

I'm acquiring materials from some time, for a desktop CNC Router first, then I will turn it in a bigger one, gantry type.

I have the steppers (which are very good for gantry type and inappropriate for desk router because are big) and the electronics for 3 axis router.

For the electronics, I have two variants. Using my FreeJALduino board (18F2550) to drive the steppers, or make three stepper drivers with 12F629 and receiving steps from FreeJALduino board. The mosfets are IRL530. The controller will be connected to USB.

For the PC software, I intend to adapt an existing software to send data to FreeJALduino, or use the actual software for RepRap and adapt the Arduino firmware for FreeJALduino, in order to interpret directly the GCode. Not decided here. If 18F2550 will not have enough ROM, then I will use 18F2525 (requiring a USB to serial converter) microcontroller, which can have also a SD-card to read the GCode from there (this variant will not require a USB or serial connection).

For the mechanics (where I'm not skilled at all) I want to use skate bearings (24 pieces to acquire) and water pipes (maybe rectangular pipes) for x-y rails (don't know yet what for z) and
OSB (maybe).

The desktop CNC Router is intended mainly for PCB fabrication (first, for my projects, the PCB making is still the hard part for me). Then more serious stuff when I will turn it in a bigger CNC.

As for chopper, I want to use this simple one, and I acquired already all components.






Edited by vasi 2011-01-28
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
govertical
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Joined: 11/12/2008
Location: United States
Posts: 383
Posted: 11:34pm 27 Jan 2011
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Greetings, your project looks very interesting. I purchased a Zenbot. CNC routers are great tools. I use my to cut parts for wind mills, PMA’s and circuit boards. The software I use is TurboCad to make .dxf files, LazyCam Pro to compile G-code, and Kcam to operate the controller. I use TinyCAD and FreePCB for PCB work. I recently purchased DeskCNC to hopefully make the entire processor easier, but I am still learning. I hope to see more photos as your project progresses.








just because your a GURU or forum administer does not mean your always correct :)
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 11:52pm 29 Jan 2011
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Nice CNC and PCB result!
I got a cold - big one. My milling/drilling machine is a very small one, for delicate things. I hope it will last forever :) (Proxxon Micromot 40/E)






Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 12:04am 30 Jan 2011
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For controller, another variant is to use a Sanguino-like board where I can use directly the firmware and the PC software made for the RepRap (RepStrap) project (maybe this variant is too easy). Maybe the mechanics can be as for McWire RepStrap project (my steppers will make it unstable!). But I still want to acquire the bearings first.Edited by vasi 2011-01-31
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
govertical
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Location: United States
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Posted: 05:35am 30 Jan 2011
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Greetings, here is great resource. The site is a little confusing but it covers just about everything and there are a lot of great people that can help if you run into any problems.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php

Best regards

just because your a GURU or forum administer does not mean your always correct :)
 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 10:49am 30 Jan 2011
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Yeah the cnczone site is a good resource, massive forum.

Yesterday I visited a friend who has built his own cnc table. Its timber construction, and has a 2.4m * 1.2m cutting bed! Used Mach3 for the PC software, and microsteppers from Ocean Controls. It uses chain drive for the X and Y axis, and I have to say I was very impressed with how well it ran, very fast and accurate. My next big CNC table will use chain to I think, it works very well.



Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 02:03pm 30 Jan 2011
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  govertical said   Greetings, here is great resource. The site is a little confusing but it covers just about everything and there are a lot of great people that can help if you run into any problems.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php

Best regards


Hi @govertical, I am member of that forum but is hard to browse - I prefer this kind of online presentation: Get Ready to CNC! . Another big problem from my part is the absence of technical dictionary in my spoken english, required when you ask for help.

Regarding to the site above, I even got (asked a relative to send me) a mitter box (without pull-saw) but I don't know yet if I will use MDF. Everything is related to what I will find in stores around my living area. Anyway, tools are always good to have.



Vasi

Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
govertical
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Location: United States
Posts: 383
Posted: 02:57pm 30 Jan 2011
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Greetings, High Density Polypropylene maybe a consideration for fabricating the frame. It is easy to work with and it holds together very well using machine screws and you do not have to tap the holes. If you make the holes smaller then the screws they are self tapping. I am able to purchase it locally at a kitchen supply store in the form of kitchen cutting boards. I am green with envy regarding your friends CNC table, great work.



just because your a GURU or forum administer does not mean your always correct :)
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 03:23pm 30 Jan 2011
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Hi Glenn, I can imagine the speed looking at this one, belt driven:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKFAtOxTKw
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
MacGyver

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Joined: 12/05/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 1329
Posted: 08:22pm 30 Jan 2011
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vasi

Here's a link to Sherline. Their factory is here in Carlsbad, the city neighboring me to the North (although I'm moving to Carlsbad soon!). A friend has one of these and it's very accurate, though the work must be very small. Someone might be interested in going this route.


. . . . . Mac



Nothing difficult is ever easy!
Perhaps better stated in the words of Morgan Freeman,
"Where there is no struggle, there is no progress!"
Copeville, Texas
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 10:23pm 30 Jan 2011
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Hi Mac,

If I will go that way, then the only option available to me is this very accurate x-y (only) table which needs conversion. But the working area is very small: 134 x 46 mm



Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 04:19pm 18 Apr 2011
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Hi guys,

I found on this movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJbhcJqmwtQ
a nice way to keep axes on rails. Can be tight and sturdy enough?
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 12:28am 19 Apr 2011
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Nice find Vasi

I must say I like the U-Bolt and bearing idea Very compact and simple.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 11:55pm 11 Jul 2011
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I started to build the simple chopper from here, the safe variant (see "Build info" link from that page for details). I like to draw my own pcb's so I used the free version of Eagle under Linux







Because of the three 2N3055 power transistors, entire available size of the pcb is used but, when I pictured (bottom-left corner of the first image) the cooling radiator I have, I saw that I have no chance to fit them on the board. So, the power transistors will be mounted on a piece of plastic or something, and connected with wires and pcb screw connectors. Dirty...



I parked the transistors in the bottom-left corner on the board (the free version of Eagle do not let me to put them outside of the board and I don't know a method to hide them unless erasing them from the schematic - which I don't want).
The files can be downloaded from here.
Edited by vasi 2011-07-13
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 11:41am 03 May 2012
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Chopper and one of the stepper drivers almost ready - just waiting for some drill bits to arrive. As for g-code interpreter, I received an Arduino UNO from FLorin as a present. Thank you Florin, this will be my g-code interpreter (with help from GRBL firmware) and the brain for my CNC.






Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
MicroBlocks

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Joined: 12/05/2012
Location: Thailand
Posts: 2209
Posted: 06:27am 30 May 2012
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Vasi, that last video of the homebuild cnc is a inaccurate system. It will work great for cutting foam and soft woods with millimeter accuracy.
It will have way to much flexibility in its parts.
If you are looking for parts i suggest looking at makerslide and the ordbot for inspiration.
My own homebuild cnc, which still only exists in my head :) will use epoxy concrete.
This is a good way to supress vibrations, which in cnc together with flex is your biggest enemy. Material is also pretty cheap.
A good read is this pretty long thread http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=51617
Microblocks. Build with logic.
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 08:17am 31 May 2012
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Thank you, I will read about that!

______________
At first sight, indeed, an interesting (and very appealing) design:



I'm afraid that the aluminum will wear out quickly.Edited by vasi 2012-06-01
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 11:41am 26 Sep 2012
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Finally, I have a power source for my steppers. My brother in law Pety sponsored me with this 36Vcc/8.8A industrial power source. Of course, made in China. Happy!




I know where AC is going, but I don't know what N (null?) and L (phase?) means. The pdf does not say much (to me at least)

2012-09-26_214054_sp-320.pdf.zip Edited by vasi 2012-09-27
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 12:32pm 26 Sep 2012
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N is Neutral, and L is Line ( or Active, depending on your countries power standards ). If you wire this up with a power lead, then the L should be the brown or red wire, and N is blue or black. But this may vary from country to country.

Some will say its not important and you can swap the N and L around, but its best to stick with the standards.

Nice power supply!

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
vasi

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Joined: 23/03/2007
Location: Romania
Posts: 1697
Posted: 12:53pm 26 Sep 2012
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Thanks Glenn, I will do as you say. I have a screwdriver who can show me the active wire.
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
Beyound Arduino Lang
 
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