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Forum Index : Electronics : battery interconnection methods

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hutchies
Newbie

Joined: 21/01/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 4
Posted: 11:13pm 21 Jan 2012
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Hi All, I have just joined forum and have never used a forum before so please forgive me if I'm a bit clunky using the forum.

My first question hopefully is a no brainer for most of you although not entirely for me. I have just purchased a bank of 24 * 2 volt SuperSafe T batteries (2T500/2), but with no cables or joiners, to install in my off grid holiday shack. Up to now I have been running a 12 volt system via solar panels and 4 * 12 volt 100ah batteries.

Now its time to upgrade hence the 2 volt batteries (and a new set of solar panels). My first question is how best to interconnect the separate 2 volt batteries together. Haven't decided on whether I will go 4 * 12v or 2 *24v yet, but will join the 2 or 4 sets via good size cables. The area I'm not sure about is the linking within the bank.

Am I correct in my theory that I should use a copper strap between terminal holes tied down with stainless steel bolts & washers. If so how do i know what size copper strtip to use and where can I buy it. If I have the wrong end of the stick with this theory advice on how best to link the batteries together would be appreciated. I really don't want and try to link each battery via cables.

Thansk and hope I haven't got you too confused with me questions.

Cheers
Bryan
 
VK4AYQ
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 12:22am 22 Jan 2012
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Hi Bryan

I use flattened 3/4 inch copper pipe for my connectors in the bolt type attachment very cost effective, also tin them to help reduce corrosion, they can be kept short so not much resistance losses.

24 volt set up is a good compromise and plenty of gear to go with it 48 volt is more efficient but a bit dangerous if kids and uninformed people are around it. If you use 24 volt a series to 12 volt cross tie and series to 12 volt again helps battery balance.

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
hutchies
Newbie

Joined: 21/01/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 4
Posted: 08:02am 22 Jan 2012
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Thanks Bob, using copper pipe flattened sounds clever to me. Thanks Heaps
 
windlight
Guru

Joined: 03/03/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 331
Posted: 09:00pm 22 Jan 2012
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Bryan if you use Bob's method insulate the copper pipe as much as possible to reduce the risk of accidental shorts.

A of J
"I like this place and willingly could waste my time in it" - (Act II, Scene IV).
 
hutchies
Newbie

Joined: 21/01/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 4
Posted: 09:22pm 22 Jan 2012
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Thanks A of J, yes , insulating the flattened pipe would be a very wise safety measure. do you have any ideas on a safer method? Thanks Bryan
 
Gizmo

Admin Group

Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 10:43pm 22 Jan 2012
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Insulation tape wrapped around the flattened copper is OK, but see if you can find some plastic hose, like garden hose, thats fits neatly over the flat copper. The insulation is to reduce the changes of a short if something metalic ( spanner, screwriver, bolt, etc ) falls onto the battery bank.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
windlight
Guru

Joined: 03/03/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 331
Posted: 01:47pm 23 Jan 2012
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This site give some tables and possibly ideas for those wishing to not use standard cable for battery connections. The only negative I can see in using rigid connections is any movement may stress the terminals, there should not be any movement of batteries but..

bus bar

A of J
"I like this place and willingly could waste my time in it" - (Act II, Scene IV).
 
VK4AYQ
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 11:17pm 23 Jan 2012
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Hi Allan

I bend the connector strips into a half loop to absorb any movement, it adds a couple of inches of copper but is worth the effort.

I also made a lot of connectors out of an old copper HWS it is 1 mm thick and cut into 25 mm wide strips I got enough connector to last 100 years it is more flexible in the loop than flattened pipe so that's a bonus.

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
windlight
Guru

Joined: 03/03/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 331
Posted: 05:25am 24 Jan 2012
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Bob could you please explain your method of bending, I read that you have flattened the tube then bent it into the half circle, least ways that's how it seems to me, certainly that would address any stress problems.

I may be wrong and I am not trying to be funny but for the benefit of less experienced fabricators.

A of J
"I like this place and willingly could waste my time in it" - (Act II, Scene IV).
 
VK4AYQ
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 06:07am 24 Jan 2012
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Hi Allan

The connector is shaped like the symbol for OHM two flat sections with a loop in between the pipe is still fairly rigid but enough give for normal purposes and you can alter the curve to accommodate the distances between the terminals,

Alt code 234 on windoze. I believe but it doesn't work in this script.

All the best

Bob
Edited by VK4AYQ 2012-01-25
Foolin Around
 
hutchies
Newbie

Joined: 21/01/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 4
Posted: 10:56pm 24 Jan 2012
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Thanks Guys,

All this is good stuff helping me get a better idea of how to connect and the safeguards required. the bus bar charts should prove very handy.
Thanks Bryan
 
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