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Forum Index : Electronics : A new controller circuit

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Gizmo

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Posted: 12:54pm 14 May 2009
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Hi guys.

I'm working on a new wind/solar controller. This time I wanted something very simple, no microprocessors, and cheap. And it had to be easy to adjust. This is what I've come up with so far. Its a working circuit, tested tonight, though some values will change to get it "calibrated".

This uses a single quad op amp IC, a handfull of other components, and a automotive relay to switch the currents. My main requirements were...
  • I could attach the controller to a battery and adjust its switching points using a multimeter, without a variable power supply.
  • One trimpot adjusts the dump load on voltage, and other trimpot is for the dump load off voltage. The trimports DO NOT affect each other
  • It will work on 12 or 24v, 48 with a tiny modification
  • It was cheap

To calibrate the thing, I connect it to a 12v source, then using the test points T1 and T2, with respect to ground, I adjust the dump on and off voltage. Reading at T1 and T2 is 1/10 actual voltage. So if I want the dump load to cut in at 14.5 volts and cut out at 13 volts, I adjust T1 for 1.3v and T2 for 1.45v. Then when I actually connect it to the battery bank it will switch at the preset voltages. Unlike other op-amp based controllers I've seen, making adjustments to either trimpot wont affect the adjustment on the other trimpot. Anyone who has built a simple op-amp controller with hysteresis will know how frustrating it can be to adjust! I didnt want that with this controller.

I still need to finalize some of the component values to get the T1 and T2 readings spot on, and I would like to tickle up the 7808 to supply 10 volts instead of 8, other than that its working fine. Any comments would be welcome.

Glenn

The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
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niall1

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Joined: 20/11/2008
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Posted: 09:00pm 14 May 2009
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Hi Glenn
Nice work and a really neat kind of "calibration" on the op amp inputs ....

if you get a chance i,d like to see the 48v mod ..will you you still use the 78xx in some way ?

ps...if your going to tickle up that 08 to 10 i hope you,ve told it you,ll marry it first .. Edited by niall1 2009-05-16
niall
 
GWatPE

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Posted: 10:14pm 14 May 2009
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HNi Glenn,

this cct performs a similar function to my first dump load controller. I used a single 74c14 chip though as the amplifier. The sensing component was a logic level FET. I still have this cct working on windmills systems in remotes parts of SA. They are 24V, and the relay is a SSRelay type.

This cct still really only provides voltage protection to the battery. Battery charging and maintenance is still required.

Most readers would be able to make a unit like this on a breadboard. This is a another useful alternative cct to a micro.

Gordon.
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sPuDd

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Posted: 02:09am 15 May 2009
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Can't argue with that. You set out goal specs and have achieved them. Nice work again Glenn

Might I suggest you do it up as a kit for those who fear even the vero board. Should be a tiny enough PCB. I know I'm jumping the gun there as its not yet fully tested, but field beta testing is the way

sPuDd..

It should work ...in theory
 
vasi

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Posted: 07:49am 15 May 2009
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It looks good and this is great:

  Gizmo said   My main requirements were...
  • I could attach the controller to a battery and adjust its switching points using a multimeter, without a variable power supply.
  • One trimpot adjusts the dump load on voltage, and other trimpot is for the dump load off voltage. The trimports DO NOT affect each other



I'm tempted to build one
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
Elvish name: Mablung Miriel
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Gizmo

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Posted: 05:25am 16 May 2009
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The controller is giving me a headache.

It looks as the switching inside the op-amp isn't as clear cut as I hoped. In fact its pretty terrible, I must be doing something wrong. If I adjust T1 ( the + input of that amp ) for 1.2 volts, I thought once the voltage on the -ve input went below 1.2 volts the op-amp would switch. In fact it needs to drop to 1.14 volts before the switch happens. Thats a big offset. Same with the high side op-amp, if I set T2 ( the - input ) to 1.5, it needed about 1.57v on the +ve input before it switched state. Multiply those figures by 10 and the regulator has a inaccuracy of about 0.6 volts from the calibration made with a multimeter.

Glenn


The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
sPuDd

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Posted: 09:11am 16 May 2009
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Gizmo,
is it related to the diode on the output? Or would an op-amp with closer input diff specs do it? Op-amp with offset null adjustment?

Going back to analogue after MCUs is always a task. I know I'd already be considering a PICAXE, but that defeats the purpose.

I have to fix the brightness control system on my old 20Mhz CRO - not looking forward to such an analogue task

sPuDd..

It should work ...in theory
 
niall1

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Joined: 20/11/2008
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Posts: 331
Posted: 10:07am 16 May 2009
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Hi glen

i,m way out of my debth here but would some type of feedback on the op amps help trigger the change over points ? i read somewhere that if the change in voltage is very slow in happening an op amp can get a little lazy ..

this is kind of similar (not to your specs though) off the web .. it trips in and out a pump for a solar panel (dodgy pic quality )



some de- coupling caps maybe might help the inputs Edited by niall1 2009-05-18
niall
 
davef
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Posted: 07:36am 17 May 2009
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Glenn,

Are you using a digital voltmeter? Perhaps even with a 10M input impedance the drop across the 15K, plus if you have the 10K pot down at the "2.2K" end of it's travel might account for the difference in voltage reading.

I'd expect the op amps to switch within in millivolts, especially with max gain as you have it set up.

Dave
 
Gizmo

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Posted: 07:57am 17 May 2009
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Thanks for the input guys. I'll have another fiddle in a couple of days.

  davef said   Glenn,

Are you using a digital voltmeter? Perhaps even with a 10M input impedance the drop across the 15K, plus if you have the 10K pot down at the "2.2K" end of it's travel might account for the difference in voltage reading.

I'd expect the op amps to switch within in millivolts, especially with max gain as you have it set up.

Dave


Good point Dave. When I suspected something was weird I used two digital multimeters, one on the +ve and one of the -ve, and I could measure the error. But what I didn't do was compare the multimeters against eachother! One is about 20 years old, and I wouldn't know its internal resistance. I also noticed when I was close to a switching point, touching the test point with the meter probe would cause it to trigger. I now think I need to drop the divider network resistors down in value, to increase the current a little and make them less sensitive to a high resistance multimeter.

Ahh, give me software anyday!

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
sPuDd

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Posted: 10:50am 17 May 2009
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I think Dave may be right. A quick hit of ohms law shows tens of millivolts change with a 1Meg/V DMM. I see the chain as it stands is using less than 0.5mA. Some lower value resistors would help. Though it depends on how much of a power miser you have to be.

Would a constant current source for the divider chain help? Seems to be how most analogue IC's internally keep their accuracy for reference voltages. Maybe a TL431. They seem to be the fad in most SMPSUs for keeping the opto couplers in check.

Either that or buffer the measured value with more opamps? Nah...

You know, we wouldn't think less of you if you whipped a PICAXE08M at that puppy
Then again, that might just lead us back to square one with input loading. Unless you read the values to an LCD..... ahh yes, the seed is sown my dark lord

Feel the power of the Dark Side! Whoops - I mean PICAXE...

sPuDd..

It should work ...in theory
 
oztules

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Posted: 12:08pm 17 May 2009
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I think the voltage dividers need to be much lower impedance if your going to measure them without a high impedance buffer of some kind.

I think better still to use a pwm chip (494 springs to mind here), use the internal voltage regulator for your stable reference, and then set the op amp for your on voltage, very little feedback )if any), and it will switch on the pulse train hard as a soon as trip voltage is hit. What hysteresis

That gets rid of the second voltage setting bits, most of the parts, and the relay.... and gives a PWM output. Two fets will switch10- 20A probably (Rds .01r) without much in the way of heat sinks in that application..... happily it will do the range from 12-28v without a problem. The chip is good for over 35v.


............oztules

ps I built a quick prototype last night of just this. Works well.... probably wouldn't hurt to add 4 more components and give it upper current limit to protect the fets I suppose.Edited by oztules 2009-05-18
Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
 
niall1

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Joined: 20/11/2008
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Posted: 11:26pm 17 May 2009
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dismembering pc power supplies is good enough therapy fun for me ( never mind getting a nice 494 ...sometimes ...and other goodies)

what i was trying to rembember in my last post (without the wine mist) was a schmitt trigger thingy



bottoms up then (any excuse)....Her otto .. .......well sort of Edited by niall1 2009-05-19
niall
 
Gizmo

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Posted: 11:39am 18 May 2009
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Well I changed the values of the resistor divider strings to about 5k total, increasing the current and reducing the effect of the multimeter. I made no difference! Still the same problem, some sort of built in hysteresis in the opamp. Its about 0.05 to 0.08 volts past the +ve = -ve input before it switches state. I've spend too much time on this, so I'm going to give up on the "preset with a multimeter" idea. As a controller its still a good circuit, but a variable power supply is needed to adjust the thing.

I really hate analogue!

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
GWatPE

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Posted: 01:53am 19 May 2009
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A lot of problems with input offset errors is caused by the cct design. It is important to have the currents that enter each input of the opamp equal. I use input series resistors. There is complicated stuff inside the opamps and the operation is affected if the same current does not apppear on each input. Output loading can introduce other problems as well.

This windmill controller arrangement still requires some additional components to work well with a battery. I have had poor battery performance with a single set point controller on gel type batteries. Will work with flooded systems if the electrolyte levels are checked daily, and the voltage is set high enough to gas the cells.

Gordon.
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sPuDd

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Posted: 01:55am 19 May 2009
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Silly question Glenn, but did you try a different species of op-amp? Maybe the front end on that type is too fussy? Or the internal pre-bias of the output is to geared to power saving?

Curse that analogue! What’s analogue ever done for us!?

sPuDd..

It should work ...in theory
 
Tinker

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Posted: 02:10pm 19 May 2009
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  sPuDd said  

Curse that analogue! What’s analogue ever done for us!?

sPuDd..


Well, it gave us radio and TV for half a century
Klaus
 
Gizmo

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Posted: 10:07pm 19 May 2009
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Well I've given up on the "I could attach the controller to a battery and adjust its switching points using a multimeter, without a variable power supply." idea, its just not going to happen without a lot more development time and components.

So I've modified the circuit a little, and it will need to be adjusted the old way, ie

  • Turn Low Volt trimpot to min and the High Volt trimpot to max.
  • Attach variable power supply and adjust to upper charging voltage limit, eg 15v
  • Turn high side pot down until the relay clicks in.
  • Adjust powersupply to lower limit, eg 13v
  • Adjust lower trimpot till relay drops out.
  • Finished.


Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
sPuDd

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Posted: 01:58am 20 May 2009
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Glenn,
if designing this for the average person to build & setup, and the need for a variable supply bothers you - why not fit a simple LM317 and multi turn pot to the board with provision for an AC plug pack. That way all a person needs is a 12-24Vac plug pack laying about and they're set. Maybe a diode on the LM317 output to remove it from the circuit when in use. You would only need the LM317 and less than 10 other components.

Perhaps just supply an LM317 based PSU as a separate option if doing a kit?

sPuDd..

It should work ...in theory
 
vasi

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Posted: 01:37pm 20 May 2009
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  Gizmo said   Well I've given up on the "I could attach the controller to a battery and adjust its switching points using a multimeter, without a variable power supply." idea, its just not going to happen without a lot more development time and components.

So I've modified the circuit a little, and it will need to be adjusted the old way, ie

  • Turn Low Volt trimpot to min and the High Volt trimpot to max.
  • Attach variable power supply and adjust to upper charging voltage limit, eg 15v
  • Turn high side pot down until the relay clicks in.
  • Adjust powersupply to lower limit, eg 13v
  • Adjust lower trimpot till relay drops out.
  • Finished.


Glenn


It still remain an atractive controller, easy to setup (better than what I built in past, which had histerezis). Having a variable power supply, based on LM317 at least is a must, and it was obvious for me that I had to have it before controller construction.

Every construction have his own requirements and can be done step by step, not matter if we are in rush or not. So, beginners can see these requirements as normal steps.

When I come in PIC programming I saw the huge diference in speed development regarding to PICAXE dev. PICAXE advantage. Is a nightmare to switch every time the serial connector of programmer, with serial connector from the breadboard, moving the power source connector from programmer to breadboard, moving the chip from montage to another place where can be programmed. And this, for every variable change. Is easy to make a mistake when you get tired. So, a development board is a must. No matter when it will be done. Is just a normal step...Edited by vasi 2009-05-22
Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton
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