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hotaircapital

Newbie

Joined: 18/06/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 4

Posted: 12:50pm 18 Jun 2008

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Hi new member but have been reading post for about 2 year like all the work you guy do
this is just a link thought may be interested in

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-cnc-controller /

grub
Senior Member

Joined: 27/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 169

Posted: 09:54pm 18 Jun 2008

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I did a copy and paste of the address and came up with a "not found" error. It seems there is a space after "controller" and before "/" that should not be there.

brucedownunder2
Guru

Joined: 14/09/2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 1548

Posted: 10:06pm 18 Jun 2008

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Welcome friend,,,

you are just the guy we have been looking for (IMHO) ,, could you please enlighten me on the driving of these motors,,I have all types and would like to know if I could use the boards out of the washing machine and other parts to actually drive these motors..
Also ,,maybe,, as we are using the stator and rotor up there as a gennie ,,maybe you would have clues as how to rotate ir from down below ,,(to overcome the cogging,low winds, Etc)

Nice to hear from you and your pic's look encourageing,,along with the feedback --will be following you,, where in Oz are you ,,I'm in sth east Qld.

Bruce

Bushboy

GWatPE

Senior Member

Joined: 01/09/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2127

Posted: 10:44pm 18 Jun 2008

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Hi Bruce,

It should be possible to use the original F&P electronic commutator setup with the sensors to assist the rotor to start. The voltage available would only be the battery though. A wind speed sensor would be required with a controller that only activated the drive for a specific wind speed condition. This might be, the windmill has to be stopped initially, and if the windspeed increased to windmill cutin speed, then activate the control. turn OFF control after say 3 secs. The controller would be reset when the rotor speed dropped to zero. The cycle could then repeat.

The only drawback would be that all the electronics would need to be together, unless sensorless commutator switching could be employed. This would be like a regenerative PM motor controller. I have a Pacific Scientific controller that I hope to test on my mill for this purpose.

cheers, Gordon.

become more energy aware

hotaircapital

Newbie

Joined: 18/06/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 4

Posted: 05:02am 29 Jun 2008

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Bruce not my mill or controll board just a mill I came across looking on the net thought it may be of interest have no more details then that

oztules

Guru

Joined: 26/07/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1686

Posted: 03:38pm 29 Jun 2008

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Bruce,

I have cobbled together a elquickie driver for the axial flux that should work with the F+P to drive it as a motor. It is barbaric, lossy and dead simple. It would achieve short duration start up stuff only.

For more than 10 seconds without current limit, I think FET death would be a certainty. ( I used one of my converted psu's to drive it. So I had current limit of 6 Amps from memory)

What it lacks in longevity and decency, it makes up for in simplicity. It could probably be called a bang bang driver.
From memory it used 3 fets, three hall effects (from motor anyway, and about 9 resistors (maybe 9 cant be sure. If you are interested I will see if I can find the ratsnest.... I mean prototype, and see how I did it.

I think I just used the halls to switch the fets directly. The three resistors (per fet) were used to make each hall drive it's fet.... and that was it. Very much like the fan in your computer.

I did it as an exercise in idle curiosity to see how hall effect latches could be used, and it near broke my hand with the startup torque on my axial flux genny sitting on the bench. Frightened hell out of me when it sprang into life.

I suspect that with some tinkering that it may become more tame. It had no speed control, just go and stop. Top speed before I disconnected it was only about 120 rpm.

..........oztules

Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth

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