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Forum Index : Solar : Sterling engine help please

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Todax

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Joined: 06/11/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Posted: 01:32pm 26 Nov 2010
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Experimenting with this engine for solar use, but I would like to switch to a beta style engine. I've reviewed many drawings and can't quite figure out the displacer arm attachment. Does it ride through the piston shaft, along side it, or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 10:26pm 26 Nov 2010
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Hi Todax

The Beta type has the displacer in the same cavity as the power piston, and its driven by a shaft that goes up the center of the piston. Its probably one of the hardest to make, but its also the most compact.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stirling_engine

I've built several Gamma's, including one LTD that would run on ice, using the room temperature as the heat source, fun stuff. I want to build a alpha type, much bigger, and use a wood stove as its heat source.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
MacGyver

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Joined: 12/05/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 1329
Posted: 11:41pm 26 Nov 2010
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Todax

These type engines run on suction rather than expansion, so they are limited as to how cool you can keep one side. As soon as the hot-side and cold-side temperatures get close to each other, the thing grinds to a halt.

A "Flame Sucker" engine is a lot of fun to build and watch run, but again, it is only as efficient as it is possible to keep the finned area colder than the flame it's sucking in.

If your idea is to use concentrated solar energy to run the thing, you won't have to worry about that temperature difference as much as you will about lubrication. I built one that ran off concentrated solar once, but it didn't put out enough power to amount to much. Fun to watch run, but that's about all.


. . . . . Mac



Edited by MacGyver 2010-11-28
Nothing difficult is ever easy!
Perhaps better stated in the words of Morgan Freeman,
"Where there is no struggle, there is no progress!"
Copeville, Texas
 
Todax

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Joined: 06/11/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Posted: 05:19pm 27 Nov 2010
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Gizmo, I saw that pic and many others, but none I've found show the actual machining details. I sort of thought they worked as you stated, but working out the linkage seems to be the real trick.

Mac, I've seen those flame suckers but as well as they work, I agree I don't see any practical application.

And to both of you... since I'm a cabinet maker by trade, I always look for ways to build with my scraps. As well, I'm always telling my clients tha radius work is twice as expensive and time consuming as squared work. To that end, I'm going to work on a regular Stirling engine with mostly wood parts with squared pistons (After all, what does shape matter when it doesn't involve girls... or friction). Since I really want it more for study purposes only as a model, longevity isn't important. The idea is to find a way of making a lever style piston that would be easier to use to make multiple cylinders. Any thoughts from the wiser souls here?
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 02:38pm 28 Nov 2010
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Todax, I think square wooden pistons would be a first in engine design .
Let us know if it works.
Klaus
 
Robb
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Joined: 01/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 221
Posted: 02:50am 29 Nov 2010
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  Tinker said   Todax, I think square wooden pistons would be a first in engine design .
Let us know if it works.


I have seen a sterling engine with a polystyrene foam piston. It was the air displacement piston and did not touch the sides of the cylinder. Once again it was only a gimmick kind of thing to play with and would run with ice or a warm kettle. Fun to see going
 
Todax

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Joined: 06/11/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Posted: 03:43am 29 Nov 2010
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Yeah, I'm sure it'll work. Since I'm new to the science of it all, it'll make everything easier to adjust as needed. Obviously, they'll be a metal heat plate and wire used, and in the end, it is just for use as a model to check out the workings of Rev Stirling. It'll also make it easier to test a balloon for the power piston and switch to a solid one.
I also saw many things used for the displacer. About the only truly new idea from what I see is leaving things square. I know it's not the most proficient way of doing it, but it'a the quickest and easiest for something that'll just fill a storage box very quickly.
I also expect to take a shortcut with the displacer piston. I saw one guy that used a spring wire instead of a piston rod... so why not? Hopefully, I'll have it done this week.
 
VK4AYQ
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Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 03:48am 29 Nov 2010
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Hi Todax

I restored one years ago, it was huge and weighed a tonne and made less than 1 horsepower, I think it was an erricksen, it was used originally to pump water but after setting fire to the farm several times they used a little diesel motor, Unless you have a thing for hot air engines you would be better to go for a solar steam setup.
All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
Todax

Newbie

Joined: 06/11/2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10
Posted: 04:20am 29 Nov 2010
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Total nubie here. One step at a time usually works best. Once I have thorough on hands knowledge, then I'll go for the next rung. I have a goal, but I need a good base knowledge before making that leap. Getting alot of help and ideas from here though. Thanx.
 
VK4AYQ
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Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 01:16pm 29 Nov 2010
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Hi Todax

A friend of mine made one with volkswagon air cooled cylinders one for the hot and two for the cold, he used swinging links for the piston guides and a welded up crank shaft.

Just a suggestion

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
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